Autoflower Bible: From First Seed to Expert Harvest

A field-tested, hype-free walkthrough that gets you from “never grown” to jars you’re proud of—without burning cash or time.

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Why Autoflowers Work for Real-World Schedules

Autoflowers transition to bloom based on age, not light schedule. That means you can run a single, simple cycle—18/6 or 20/4—from sprout to harvest, keep power predictable, and never worry about light leaks. In small apartments, dorms, or busy homes, that “set-and-hold” approach beats micromanaging timers and blackout curtains. The compromise is time: autos give you less recovery window if you overwater or stress them—so we keep moves minimal and environment steady.

Fast Setup That Actually Hits the Targets

If you’re starting in a 2×2, run one plant in a 3–5 gal fabric pot. It’s easy to water, easy to train, and easy to light evenly. In a 3×3, run two plants in 3–5 gal or four smaller plants in 2–3 gal if you already own a decent light. Keep the frame simple: a modest LED board, an inline fan with a carbon filter, and one clip fan to ripple the leaves.

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Environment: The Boring Lever That Wins Grows

Autos aren’t divas, but they love consistency. Think ranges, not perfection. Seedlings are happiest at 75–80 °F and 65–75% RH. Early veg likes 72–78 °F at 55–65% RH. As buds stack, slide RH down to 45–55% to discourage mold. Late flower is fine at 68–75 °F and 40–50% RH. A tiny desk fan that makes leaves gently flutter prevents stale pockets where pests and mildew get comfy.

Lighting Without a Meter (Yes, You Can)

Follow the manufacturer’s PAR map if you have one. No map? Use the plant as the meter: when the canopy “prays” (petioles lift), you’re close. When tips bleach or curl, you’re past the line. Good ballparks for autos on 18/6:

• Seedling: 200–300 μmol/m²/s (~12–15 DLI)
• Veg: 350–500 μmol/m²/s (~22–32 DLI)
• Peak flower: 600–800 μmol/m²/s (~38–50 DLI)

As the plant rises, keep intensity constant by raising the light or dimming slightly. A calm, even canopy with no hot spots is better than chasing max PPFD in one corner.

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Clear diagrams and no-nonsense tips for seed-to-jar fundamentals. Great offline reference while you tuck leaves or mix nutes.

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Soil vs. Coco vs. Hydro (Pick One, Win More)

Living/Amended Soil

The relaxed route. Layer a light mix on top and a modestly amended base below. Water with dechlorinated water, top-dress around week 3 and again mid-flower, and focus on environment and irrigation rhythm. Keep pH ~6.3–6.8. The plant steers a lot of the show; you observe, prune lightly, and step in when the leaves ask for help.

Coco 70/30 With Daily Feed

Fast and precise. Always use cal-mag, keep coco evenly moist (not soggy), and feed low EC daily to 10–20% runoff. pH 5.8–6.0 for most of the run. Growth is vigorous and predictable once you lock the routine.

DWC/Hydro

Autos will punish mistakes in hydro faster than soil or coco. If it’s your first grow, learn in soil or coco, then jump to water culture once you’re comfortable with VPD and EC control. Hydro sings at 65–68 °F water temps with strong aeration and a stable nutrient profile.

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Watering Rhythm & Pot Sizes

Fabric pots breathe, dry more evenly, and build dense roots. For a 2×2, a 3–5 gal pot is the sweet spot: enough media to buffer moisture but small enough to dry in a sane timeframe. In soil, water only when the pot is noticeably lighter and the top inch is dry; in coco, feed once or twice daily as roots fill out. In week 1, water a ring a few inches from the stem so roots “hunt” outward.

Feeding by Feel (and EC)

Autos don’t want to be hammered. Start gentle and nudge up:

• Week 1: 0.2–0.4 EC; add a touch of cal-mag if you’re on RO.
• Weeks 2–3: 0.6–0.9 EC; foliage should be perky, new growth lime-to-green.
• Pre-flower: 1.0–1.3 EC; keep nitrogen moderate as pistils show.
• Peak flower: 1.2–1.6 EC; watch for burnt tips and clawing.
• Finish: taper to 0.6–0.8 EC (or water-only in soil) for 7–14 days.

Heavy signs: dark, shiny leaves and downward claws—dial back. Light signs: pale new growth and flat leaves—add 0.1–0.2 EC and recheck in two days.

Training That’s Safe for Autos

Use gentle LST (low-stress training). When the fourth to fifth node forms, bend the main stem sideways and soft-tie it to split apical dominance. Retie during the stretch to keep an even skyline. Heavy topping is advanced and risky; if you try it, hit the narrow window (days 14–18) on a vigorous plant only.

Leaf Management You Won’t Regret

Leaves power the plant. Remove the ones that block multiple bud sites or trap humidity—no more. A light clean-up around day 21–28 (“lollipop” the weakest lowers) and a small thin during mid-stretch often provides all the airflow you need. After stretch, switch to plucking only what’s clearly in the way.

Pests & Pathogens (Prevent > Cure)

Quarantine new gear, keep floors clean, and never overwater. Fungus gnats thrive in wet soil—let the top inch dry, use yellow sticky cards, and dose water with BTi if you’re in soil. Spider mites despise airflow and frequent leaf checks. Powdery mildew? Reduce RH, increase fresh air, and remove infected leaves the moment you see the dust.

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Diagnostics: Read the Leaves Like a Map

• Overwatering: swollen, droopy leaves; slow growth. Water less per session, increase frequency only if pots get bone-dry.
• N toxicity: very dark green with clawing. Reduce grow nutrients and add a bit more light or airflow to boost metabolism.
• Cal-mag (coco/RO): rusty specks or interveinal yellowing—add 1–3 ml/gal cal-mag and stabilize pH.
• pH lockout: random deficiencies despite feeding—recalibrate pens and reset solution within the target range.
• Light stress: bleaching on top colas—raise or dim; move toward even coverage, not just max output.

Harvest Timing, Drying, and Curing (The Flavor Step)

Don’t harvest on breeder weeks; harvest by trichomes. With a 30–60× loupe: clear → cloudy for a racey profile, mostly cloudy for balanced potency, and cloudy with a sprinkle of amber for a heavier effect. Once you chop, the money is in the dry. Aim for 60 °F / 60% RH with soft airflow and darkness for 10–14 days. Jar when small stems snap but don’t shatter. Burp daily the first week, then taper. Flavor deepens for 3–6 weeks, harshness fades, and the nose gets loud.

A Week-by-Week Snapshot (Typical 10-Week Auto)

1. Week 1 (sprout): Keep media warm and lightly moist; 200–300 μmol; dome 24–48 h if RH is low.
2. Week 2: First ties for LST; up to 0.6–0.7 EC; confirm gentle leaf flutter.
3. Week 3: Side branches take off; 0.8–0.9 EC; light lollipop of the weakest lowers.
4. Week 4 (pre-flower): Pistils appear; transition to bloom-lean feed; 1.0–1.2 EC; intensity ~450–550 μmol.
5. Week 5: Stretch peaks; thin 10–15% of the biggest fan leaves that block multiple sites.
6. Week 6–7: Buds stack; 1.2–1.5 EC; RH 45–50%; watch tips and adjust by 0.1 EC if needed.
7. Week 8: Aroma ramps; consider adding an extra clip fan to move air under the canopy.
8. Week 9: Begin checking trichomes 2–3×/week; many cultivars ripen here.
9. Week 10: Most autos are ready or within a week; taper EC and stage your dry space before the chop.

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Staggered Harvests: Small Tent, Full Jars

Pop one seed every 3–4 weeks and keep your tent at 18/6. In a 3×3, two autos four weeks apart give you consistent harvests with the same footprint, same fan, same filter. Use blocks or plant risers to keep canopies level under the light.

Simple Checklists You’ll Actually Use

Daily

• Leaves praying? Great. Taco/bleach? Dim and/or raise the light; bump RH slightly.
• Soil: lift the pot. If it feels halfway to featherweight, water next. Coco: feed to runoff.
• Confirm a soft breeze through and under the canopy.

Weekly

• Log EC in and runoff EC (coco). Recalibrate your pH pen.
• Thin only what blocks multiple bud sites.
• Look under leaves for unwelcome guests.

Pre-Harvest

• Check trichomes 2–3× each week.
• Prep drying area (60/60). Clean shears, label jars.
• Taper feed; keep airflow steady to the finish line.

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You don’t need a lab, a warehouse, or a thousand-dollar meter to grow excellent autos. You need rhythm. Keep the light even, move air through leaves, water with intention, and react gently when the plant speaks. Do that, and you’ll stop scrolling “grow diaries” and start writing your own.